🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.